I`m sitting at the post office at the airport in Guatemala City at the only existing computer for which they charge me an outrageous 8 quetzales/15 min rate. Anyhow, I felt that it is my duty, as I haven`t been on the radar for a while to provide an update on my ludicrous adventures. So let`s do the mundane chronological order. Yoxchilàn was about 40 minutes boat ride literally on the Mexican-Guatemalan border, one side of trees was the former, the other, the latter. Both Yoxchilan and Bonampak were lovely and interesting, but nothing extraordinary to report. I parted from my small group to head towards the ecological reserve with a small indigenous guy who picked me up. He was telling me on the way how he loves to swim in the smaller rivers, but not in the big ones because there are crocodiles. He asked me if I would like to see one of these rivers, and I said why not. As we were making our way through the jungle on a barely visible small trail, he told me that this was actually the local shaman`s territory and pointed out the ceremonial grounds and sacred trees that were marked by colourful ribbons tied around them. We got to a tiny clearing, where the river gave a small turn and formed a little bay, not bigger than maybe two bathtubs. So my new friend began telling me about this cleansing ritual that he and his people perform against all sorts of pain and fatigue. It involves getting completely naked, getting in the water, praying and rubbing clay on your body in a particular way. Of course I was completely torn between trying to decide if this was for real or it might just be the most elaborate plan on part of a man to get me out of my clothes. We got rid of my skirt, because he said red was too strong of a colour and it disrupts the ceremony. I put my foot down at the bra and underwear. Nevertheless he got butt naked. Smallest penis ever, by the way. I know I wasn`t supposed to look, but I couldn`t help to sneak a peak. Anyhow, we prayed in the local mayan language and asked permission from nature to be able to perform this ceremony, then for about 20 minutes he rubbed this clay all over me and it was incredible. Eventhough the water was quite cold after a while I stopped shivering and actually felt as if something bad was leaving from me. As we dried off the sun was already quickly sinking and on our way towards the road he stopped and held me back. The shaman was coming and we weren`t supposed to be around. We hid in the now almost completely dark jungle for what it seemed like eternity and then decided to take a detour which involved passing through the totally creepy garden of the shaman, and an abandoned shack which for all I know could have easily been a set of a horror movie. When we finally got to the car we found some of his family waiting for him to give them a ride. As he introduced me, for a moment I wondered that maybe I just taken place in some marriage ritual and I didn`t even know it. The place where I slept was simple with a few hammocks and the mosquito net around the bed. I slept like an angel, instead of bothering me or scaring me, I enjoyed the crazy concert of the insects like never before with the smooth noise of the river as the background noise.

The next morning I crossed to Guatemala and left behind this marvellous country, which held surprises for me until the very last minute. Flores was about a good 4 hours of bumpy ride away. When I tried to find a bank on the island it turned out they only exchange dollars, so I had to cross to Santa Elena, following the instructions of a lovely gentleman, who even gave me 5 quitzales for the tuc-tuc ride. I spent the afternoon having some food and beers, which rapidly turned into more beers and then a joint Israeli-Portugese-Hungarian venture to the liquor store where we managed to accumulate about three bottles of good guatemalan rum. Of course we were eventually asked to leave the hostel, and managed to find the only bar open in Flores where we danced salsa and for the sake of good measure had some tequila too. Went to bed around 1 and the next morning caught the 7 o`clock bus to Tikal. On the bus we met a guide who offered us a tour, first for a 100 then for 80 a head. As I was still hesitant, he took me aside and told me I can pay 50 as long as I don`t tell the others. He was a very good, knowledgeable and clearly interested in what he was doing and despite my sizable hangover I fully enjoyed the 4 and a half hour tour and 10 km walk-through of the biggest Mayan site of the world. The Russian-Israeli-New Yorker couple I met here were also staying in Flores, so as we got back we decided to take the boat-taxi to the other side of the lake to San Miguel, cross the little peninsula where we had the most well-deserved and satisfying swim at the deserted beach in the beautiful water. As the sun was setting we walked to the Mirador to marvel at the sight of the island of Flores, Santa Elena and the surrounding flora and fauna and of course the large and completely full moon. Despite this long day I managed to get caught up in some drinking action again with these lovely boys that I met in Los Amigos. This night I didn`t even get to sleep in my hammock, I dosed off on the bench around 5 and at 6 I got my things and headed off to the airport. On the tuc-tuc I bade a last goodbye to the beautiful Petèn Itza and swore that I will return here to relax and to definitely do the 5 day hike to El Mirador. Hopefully San Juan travel will be out of business by the time of my return.